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Authors
Abstract(s)
O presente documento foi desenvolvido no âmbito do Mestrado em Design de
Vestuário e Têxtil e consiste na elaboração de um relatório de estágio, através de um
programa de estágio curricular proporcionado pelo Instituto Politécnico de Castelo
Branco, dentro da marca Duarte realizado entre o ano letivo 2022/2023.
O estágio decorreu entre outubro de 2022 e março de 2023, no atelier da marca
Duarte, permitindo reforçar as aprendizagens adquiridas em âmbito académico,
através da prática em contexto profissional. Deste modo, neste relatório, foi possível
analisar o modo como uma marca de atelier, focada no streetwear, tem conseguido,
gradualmente, posicionar-se como uma marca sustentável criando o cool sustainable
streetwear.
A realização do estágio serviu, assim, como um meio de resposta para as questões e
objetivos propostos, percebendo qual o papel, funções e responsabilidades da
designer, bem como a compreensão dos seus métodos de trabalho, tanto criativos
como de pesquisa de matérias-primas. Para além disso, foi possível aprofundar
conhecimentos ao nível da sustentabilidade, compreendendo quais as práticas
adotadas pela marca.
Este relatório está dividido em quatro capítulos. No primeiro são apresentadas as
questões investigativas e os objetivos gerais e específicos que foram de extrema
relevância para o desenvolvimento deste relatório. Para além disso, neste capítulo, foi
também realizado o desenho de investigação, de modo a entender melhor quais os
benefícios que a mestranda adquiriu e proporcionou à marca, no decorrer do seu
estágio e quais os fatores de sucesso e insucesso.
No segundo capítulo realizou-se uma pesquisa e enquadramento com
fundamentações teóricas. Este capítulo está dividido em quatro grandes títulos:
Indústria da Moda, Design, Sustentabilidade e Sportswear e Streewear. Estes temas são
de extrema relevância para o desenvolvimento do relatório, pois foram temas
abordados durante o desenvolvimento do estágio, sendo aprofundados de modo a irem
de encontro ao objetivo proposto neste relatório.
No terceiro capítulo é apresentada a marca Duarte através de uma breve biografia
da marca e da sua diretora criativa, Ana Duarte. Para além disso, é realizada, também,
uma análise daquilo que é elaborado e desenvolvido dentro da marca, como é feita a
escolha dos materiais e a produção das peças de vestuário até ao desenvolvimento
criativo com recurso a estampados que se inserem em todas as suas coleções. Neste
capítulo são também abordados os mecanismos adotados pela marca, que fazem com
que a mesma vá de encontro à sustentabilidade. São ainda apresentadas as tarefas
realizadas pela autora ao longo do período de estágio, acompanhadas de um
cronograma, com as tarefas realizadas mensalmente. Por fim, no último capítulo, são apresentadas as conclusões e respostas às questões
de investigação que, por sua vez, possibilitou conhecimentos enriquecedores, tanto a
nível pessoal como profissional. Para além da conclusão, é neste capítulo que também
é abordada a disseminação deste relatório de estágio.
Este relatório teve como base uma metodologia de natureza não intervencionista e
uma metodologia intervencionista, onde na primeira foi realizada uma pesquisa e
análise sobre os diferentes tópicos que envolvem a investigação e, posteriormente,
uma fase focada na prática, com os trabalhos realizados em âmbito de estágio.
Abstract: This document was developed as part of the Master's programme in Clothing and Textile Design and consists of an internship report, through a curricular internship programme provided by the Polytechnic Institute of Castelo Branco, within the Duarte brand carried out between the academic year 2022/2023. The internship took place between October 2022 and March 2023, at the Duarte brand atelier, allowing to reinforce the learning acquired in the academic field, through practice in a professional context. In this way, in this report, it was possible to analyze how an atelier brand, focused on street style, has gradually managed to position itself as a sustainable brand by creating cool sustainable streetwear. The internship thus served as a means of answering the questions and objectives proposed, understanding the role, functions, and responsibilities of the designer, as well as the understanding of her working methods, both creative and research of raw materials. In addition, it was possible to deepen knowledge in terms of sustainability, understanding the practices adopted by the brand. This report is divided into four chapters. The first presents the research questions and the general and specific objectives that were extremely relevant to the development of this report. In addition, in this chapter, the research design was also carried out to better understand what benefits the master's student acquired and provided to the brand during her internship and what the success and failure factors were. In the second chapter, research and framing with theoretical foundations were carried out. This chapter is divided into four major headings: Fashion Industry, Design, Sustainability, Sportswear and Streewear. These issues are extremely relevant to the development of the report, as they were addressed during the development of the report and are further explored here, in order to meet the objective proposed in this report. The third chapter presents the Duarte brand through a brief biography of the brand and its creative director, Ana Duarte. It also analyses what is produced and developed within the brand, from the choice of materials and the production of the garments to the creative development using prints that feature in all of its collections. This chapter also discusses the mechanisms adopted by the brand, which make it more sustainable. The tasks carried out during the internship period are also presented, along with a timetable divided into monthly tasks. Finally, the last chapter draws up conclusions resulting from the development of this research and the internship period which, in turn, has provided enriching knowledge, both on a personal and professional level. This report was based on a non-interventionist methodology and an interventionist methodology, where the first involved researching and analysing the different topics involved in the investigation and, later, a phase focused on practice, with the work carried out as part of the internship.
Abstract: This document was developed as part of the Master's programme in Clothing and Textile Design and consists of an internship report, through a curricular internship programme provided by the Polytechnic Institute of Castelo Branco, within the Duarte brand carried out between the academic year 2022/2023. The internship took place between October 2022 and March 2023, at the Duarte brand atelier, allowing to reinforce the learning acquired in the academic field, through practice in a professional context. In this way, in this report, it was possible to analyze how an atelier brand, focused on street style, has gradually managed to position itself as a sustainable brand by creating cool sustainable streetwear. The internship thus served as a means of answering the questions and objectives proposed, understanding the role, functions, and responsibilities of the designer, as well as the understanding of her working methods, both creative and research of raw materials. In addition, it was possible to deepen knowledge in terms of sustainability, understanding the practices adopted by the brand. This report is divided into four chapters. The first presents the research questions and the general and specific objectives that were extremely relevant to the development of this report. In addition, in this chapter, the research design was also carried out to better understand what benefits the master's student acquired and provided to the brand during her internship and what the success and failure factors were. In the second chapter, research and framing with theoretical foundations were carried out. This chapter is divided into four major headings: Fashion Industry, Design, Sustainability, Sportswear and Streewear. These issues are extremely relevant to the development of the report, as they were addressed during the development of the report and are further explored here, in order to meet the objective proposed in this report. The third chapter presents the Duarte brand through a brief biography of the brand and its creative director, Ana Duarte. It also analyses what is produced and developed within the brand, from the choice of materials and the production of the garments to the creative development using prints that feature in all of its collections. This chapter also discusses the mechanisms adopted by the brand, which make it more sustainable. The tasks carried out during the internship period are also presented, along with a timetable divided into monthly tasks. Finally, the last chapter draws up conclusions resulting from the development of this research and the internship period which, in turn, has provided enriching knowledge, both on a personal and professional level. This report was based on a non-interventionist methodology and an interventionist methodology, where the first involved researching and analysing the different topics involved in the investigation and, later, a phase focused on practice, with the work carried out as part of the internship.
Description
Relatório apresentado à Escola Superior de Artes Aplicadas do Instituto Politécnico de Castelo Branco e da Faculdade de Arquitetura da Universidade de Lisboa, para cumprimento dos requisitos necessários à obtenção do Grau de Mestre em Design de Vestuário e Têxtil.
Keywords
Sustentabilidade Streetwear Design de moda Estágio Sustainability Fashion design Internship
