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Publication
Relatório de estágio na marca Luís Carvalho e na CBI – Portugal: o desenvolvimento técnico de vestuário na moda de autor vs. indústria do vestuário
Authors
Abstract(s)
O relatório de estágio foi elaborado no âmbito do Mestrado em Design do Vestuário e Têxtil, na Escola Superior de Artes Aplicadas do Instituto Politécnico de Castelo Branco, em colaboração com a Faculdade de Arquitetura da Universidade de Lisboa, para obtenção do grau de mestre. O trabalho tem como foco principal a comparação entre a moda de autor e a indústria do vestuário em Portugal, através de uma experiência prática de estágio na marca Luís Carvalho e na empresa CBI – Indústria de Vestuário S.A.
Deste modo, o argumento da investigação baseou-se na compreensão dos tópicos investigativos, tais como a caracterização da moda de autor e da indústria do vestuário, a nível nacional; as principais diferenças e semelhanças entre ambos, tendo em conta a metodologia de trabalho e o desenvolvimento técnico do vestuário; a capacidade de integração de um designer de moda numa marca de moda de autor e numa empresa de produção de vestuário, que não possui diretamente um departamento de design; o caráter exclusivo e personalizado do vestuário, e as sinergias que se possam desenvolver entre as tipologias de trabalho das duas empresas do setor da moda e do vestuário.
Os estágios ocorreram num período de nove meses, onde o mestrando lidou, em primeiro lugar e durante seis meses, com o ambiente profissional de uma marca de moda de autor. O contacto diário com o desenvolvimento técnico das criações do designer Luís Carvalho viabilizou a prática da metodologia projetual do design de moda, aprendida em contexto académico. Da mesma forma, e durante três meses, o estagiário imergiu num contexto industrial, representado pela empresa CBI – Portugal, desenvolvendo novas aprendizagens, competências técnicas e pensamento crítico.
A estrutura do relatório segue uma metodologia mista de investigação, intervencionista e não intervencionista, e um alinhamento que se subdivide em diferentes capítulos, sendo o primeiro destinado à nota introdutória do trabalho, assim como à apresentação dos tópicos investigativos; dos objetivos, do argumento e do desenho da investigação. O segundo capítulo contextualiza a revisão da literatura, tendo em conta três campos base à temática, tais como o design de moda e a função do designer, considerando a definição da moda de autor, do processo criativo e do paradigma nacional; a indústria do vestuário, com foco na realidade portuguesa; e o desenvolvimento técnico do vestuário, destacando-se as fichas e o desenho técnico, a modelagem e outras fases da cadeia produtiva. Seguidamente, são apresentados os locais acolhedores dos estágios, assim como são enquadradas as tarefas/ atividades desenvolvidas em cada contexto. De notar que o núcleo contributivo do relatório se centra no capítulo da comparação de metodologias, contemplando o desenvolvimento técnico do vestuário, e percecionando a fomentação de ambientes colaborativos entre ambos os contextos e conceitos.
Abstract: This internship report was written as part of the master’s programme in Clothing and Textile Design at the School of Applied Arts of the Polytechnic Institute of Castelo Branco, in collaboration with the Faculty of Architecture of the University of Lisbon, to obtain a Master's degree. The focus of the work is a comparison between designer fashion and the clothing industry in Portugal, through a practical internship experience at the Luís Carvalho brand and the company CBI - Indústria de Vestuário S.A. In this way, the argument of the research was based on understanding the investigative topics, such as the characterisation of designer fashion and the clothing industry at a national level; the main differences and similarities between the two, taking into account the working methodology and technical development of clothing; the ability of a fashion designer to integrate into a designer fashion brand and a clothing production company, which does not directly have a design department; the exclusive and personalised nature of clothing, and the synergies that can be developed between the typologies of the two companies in the fashion and clothing sector. The internships took place over a period of nine months, where the master's student first had to deal with the professional environment of a designer fashion label for six months. Daily contact with the technical development of designer Luís Carvalho's creations made it possible to practise the fashion design methodology learnt in an academic context. Likewise, for three months, the trainee was immersed in an industrial context, represented by the company CBI - Portugal, developing new learning, technical skills and critical thinking. The structure of the report follows a mixed research methodology, interventionist and non-interventionist, and an alignment that is subdivided into different chapters, the first of which is intended for the introductory note of the work, as well as the presentation of the research topics, the objectives, the argument and the research design. The second chapter contextualises the literature review, considering three basic fields, such as fashion design and the role of the designer, considering the definition of designer fashion, the creative process and the national paradigm; the clothing industry, with a focus on the Portuguese reality; and the technical development of clothing, highlighting the technical sheets and drawing, pattern making and other stages of the production chain. The places where the internships took place are presented below, as well as the tasks/activities conducted in each context. It should be noted that the core contribution of the report is centred on the chapter on the comparison of methodologies, including the technical development of clothing, and the promotion of collaborative environments between both contexts and concepts.
Abstract: This internship report was written as part of the master’s programme in Clothing and Textile Design at the School of Applied Arts of the Polytechnic Institute of Castelo Branco, in collaboration with the Faculty of Architecture of the University of Lisbon, to obtain a Master's degree. The focus of the work is a comparison between designer fashion and the clothing industry in Portugal, through a practical internship experience at the Luís Carvalho brand and the company CBI - Indústria de Vestuário S.A. In this way, the argument of the research was based on understanding the investigative topics, such as the characterisation of designer fashion and the clothing industry at a national level; the main differences and similarities between the two, taking into account the working methodology and technical development of clothing; the ability of a fashion designer to integrate into a designer fashion brand and a clothing production company, which does not directly have a design department; the exclusive and personalised nature of clothing, and the synergies that can be developed between the typologies of the two companies in the fashion and clothing sector. The internships took place over a period of nine months, where the master's student first had to deal with the professional environment of a designer fashion label for six months. Daily contact with the technical development of designer Luís Carvalho's creations made it possible to practise the fashion design methodology learnt in an academic context. Likewise, for three months, the trainee was immersed in an industrial context, represented by the company CBI - Portugal, developing new learning, technical skills and critical thinking. The structure of the report follows a mixed research methodology, interventionist and non-interventionist, and an alignment that is subdivided into different chapters, the first of which is intended for the introductory note of the work, as well as the presentation of the research topics, the objectives, the argument and the research design. The second chapter contextualises the literature review, considering three basic fields, such as fashion design and the role of the designer, considering the definition of designer fashion, the creative process and the national paradigm; the clothing industry, with a focus on the Portuguese reality; and the technical development of clothing, highlighting the technical sheets and drawing, pattern making and other stages of the production chain. The places where the internships took place are presented below, as well as the tasks/activities conducted in each context. It should be noted that the core contribution of the report is centred on the chapter on the comparison of methodologies, including the technical development of clothing, and the promotion of collaborative environments between both contexts and concepts.
Description
Relatório de Estágio apresentado à Escola Superior de Artes Aplicadas do Instituto Politécnico de Castelo Branco e à Faculdade de Arquitetura da Universidade de Lisboa para cumprimento dos requisitos necessários à obtenção do grau de Mestre em Design do Vestuário e Têxtil.
Keywords
Indústria do vestuário Design de moda de autor Estudo de caso Desenvolvimento técnico de vestuário Apparel industry Author fashion design Case study Technical garment development