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Publication
Estágio curricular na marca Susana Bettencourt & Coleção Cápsula : Coleness Angelz
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| 8.65 MB | Adobe PDF |
Authors
Abstract(s)
Susana Bettencourt é uma marca de moda de autor portuguesa, criada pela designer
de moda Susana Bettencourt Garcia Lopes. É uma marca de slow fashion, conhecida
pelo seu trabalho de jacquard com padrões únicos e muito característicos, também
desenvolve muitas peças feitas de trabalho manual (croché, malha e renda). E foi
nesta marca que a discente realizou o seu estágio curricular.
Durante o estágio curricular houve a oportunidade de aprender técnicas de trabalho
manual como o croché e a renda de bilros. Estes processos deram origem à inspiração
do tema do trabalho – “Técnicas de trabalho artesanal aplicadas numa coleção
cápsula de peças de vestu|rio e acessórios”.
Com o objetivo de perceber a ligação entre este tipo de artesanato e o design de moda
de hoje em dia, foi desenvolvida uma coleção cápsula, a pensar num público mais
jovem e com o intuito de contestar a ideia formada que temos sobre a aplicação
destas técnicas (associada ao que costumamos chamar de “trabalhos da avó” pela sua
forma estética).
Para este trabalho foram desenvolvidas metodologias mistas, intervencionistas e nãointervencionistas
que permitiram um alargar de conhecimento sobre a marca de
estágio e, uma vez mais, sobre as malhas, o croché, a renda de bilros e mais, a relação
entre o artesanato, arte e design (além do conceito tradicional dos mesmos). O estágio curricular foi uma experiência muito enriquecedora para a discente e que
permitiu alargar os seus conhecimentos e desenvolver as suas capacidades de
trabalho, dando azo à criação de uma coleção toda feita através de trabalho manual. O
que também fez com que a discente tivesse uma maior percepção de como são
importantes e valiosas estas técnicas artesanais.
Abstract : Susana Bettencourt is a portuguese author fashion brand, created by a fashion designer named Susana Bettencourt Garcia Lopes. It is a slow fashion brand, known for its jacquard work with very unique and characteristical patterns, it also develops many handmade pieces (crochet, knit and lace). And it was in this brand that the student carried out her internship. During the curricular internship, there was the opportunity to learn manual work techniques such as crochet and bobbin lace. These processes gave rise to the inspiration for the theme of the work – “Craftsmanship techniques applied in a capsule collection of garments and accessories”. In order to understand the connection between this type of craft and today's fashion design, a capsule collection was developed, for a more young audience in mind, challenging the formed idea that people tend to have about these technique, expecting them to be used by ’grandmothers’ (in a more stetic way). For this work, were mixed some interventionist with some non-interventionist methodologies, that allowed a broadening of knowledge about the internship brand and about once again knits, crochet, bobbin lace and the relationship between crafts, art and design above the ordinary concept. The internship was a very enriching experience for the student that allowed her to intensify her working skills, giving rise to the creation of a collection entirely made through manual work. Having now a greater perception of how important and valuable these artisanal techniques are.
Abstract : Susana Bettencourt is a portuguese author fashion brand, created by a fashion designer named Susana Bettencourt Garcia Lopes. It is a slow fashion brand, known for its jacquard work with very unique and characteristical patterns, it also develops many handmade pieces (crochet, knit and lace). And it was in this brand that the student carried out her internship. During the curricular internship, there was the opportunity to learn manual work techniques such as crochet and bobbin lace. These processes gave rise to the inspiration for the theme of the work – “Craftsmanship techniques applied in a capsule collection of garments and accessories”. In order to understand the connection between this type of craft and today's fashion design, a capsule collection was developed, for a more young audience in mind, challenging the formed idea that people tend to have about these technique, expecting them to be used by ’grandmothers’ (in a more stetic way). For this work, were mixed some interventionist with some non-interventionist methodologies, that allowed a broadening of knowledge about the internship brand and about once again knits, crochet, bobbin lace and the relationship between crafts, art and design above the ordinary concept. The internship was a very enriching experience for the student that allowed her to intensify her working skills, giving rise to the creation of a collection entirely made through manual work. Having now a greater perception of how important and valuable these artisanal techniques are.
Description
Dissertação apresentada à Escola Superior de Artes Aplicadas do Instituto Politécnico de Castelo Branco, em associação com a Faculdade de Arquitetura da Universidade de Lisboa, para obtenção do grau de Mestre em Design do Vestuário e Têxtil.
Keywords
Design de moda Susana Bettencourt Slow fashion Renda de bilros Croché Fashion design Bobbin lace Crochet